Château Margaux Margaux 2010
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Unbelievable as it may sound, Château Margaux 2010 is at least as great a vintage as 2009. Once again, the Cabernet Sauvignon made the most of this very dry and cool year. With as much as 90% in the blend, the Cabernet makes the wine, providing it with exceptional aromatic finesse, restrained power and subtle freshness. There is not much room left for the Merlot (7%), Cabernet Franc (1.5%) and Petit Verdot (1.5%). The genius of these Cabernet plots is astounding. Château Margaux 2010 is sheer magic; think classic, with a twist. Classic indeed, thanks to its purity, finesse and soft and refreshing finish. Add to these qualities astonishing aromatic complexity and outstanding power and the result is an exceptional year. Technology and stringent selection make it a "modern" wine, while its magnitude and charm ensure a timeless Château Margaux vintage. This 2010 is beyond the realms of time and fickle fashions.
The 2010 is a brilliant Chateau Margaux, as one might expect in this vintage. The percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the final blend hit 90%, the balance Merlot and Cabernet Franc, and only 38% of the crop made it into the Chateau Margaux. Paul Pontallier, the administrator, told me that this wine has even higher levels of tannin than some other extraordinary vintages such as 2005, 2000, 1996, etc. Deep purple, pure and intense, with floral notes, tremendous opulence and palate presence, this is a wine of considerable nobility. With loads of blueberry, black currant and violet-infused fruit and a heady alcohol level above 13.5% (although that looks modest compared to several other first growths, particularly Chateau Latour and Chateau Haut-Brion), its beautifully sweet texture, ripe tannin, abundant depth and profound finish all make for another near-perfect wine that should age effortlessly for 30-40 years.
Score: 99, Robert Parker, February 2013
Collectibles. A mouthwatering tobacco leaf note leads the way, quickly followed by steeped black currant and fig fruit, with dark tar and ganache on the back end. Roasted alder and juniper hints hang in the background. Extremely backward, with a firm, tannic structure, this is girded for the long haul. Judging from the finely beaded acidity and lilting echo of lilac that peeks in now, this should acquire sensational aromatics and incredible grace with age. Best from 2018 through 2040.
Score: 98, James Molesworth, March 2013
A great wine that is just starting out. The high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend gives the structured, black currant character. Dark chocolate and layers of wood are forward, revealing how young the wine is. And then the fruit, so rich and powerful, brings deliciousness to the firm, dense structure. Age for many years.
Score: 98, Roger Voss, May 2013
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