The 2017 Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux has gained in depth and dimension with élevage and showed very well from bottle, unfurling in the glass with an expressive, youthfully fruit-driven bouquet of raspberries, cherries, candied peel and rose petals, framed by a subtle touch of new oak. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, velvety and fleshy, with succulent acids and elegant tannins. While this isn't as rich, muscular or gourmand as the 2018, it's an immensely seductive wine that will drink well comparatively young?hough readers should still plan on exercising at least a decade's patience.
The 2017 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru was tasted from different sectors of the vineyard. The first sample, tasted directly from tank, comes from two parcels, one at the bottom part of the clos populated by 45- to 65-year-old vines on clay-rich soils, and another located in a plot of 35- to 38-year-old vines. This has a precise, focused bouquet of black cherries, bilberry, a touch of oyster shell and just a hint of blue fruit. The 30% new oak is neatly integrated. The medium-bodied palate shows supple tannins laced with a fine bead of acidity. It exerts a gentle grip and feels quite saline toward the finish. A second sample from limestone soils demonstrates a little more amplitude and a higher percentage of red fruit, not to mention a silkier finish, while a third sample from 86- to 98-year-old vines provides the floral scents and the persistency, perhaps the intellect, of what will be the final blend. This does not possess quite the persistency of the greatest Clos des Epeneaux that I have encountered, yet it is undoubtedly a beautifully made wine. (Drink between 2023-2045)
Once again there is just enough wood present to merit mentioning as it frames the much earthier blend of both red and dark currant scents that are cut with leather and underbrush nuances. The supple medium-bodied flavors possess reasonable though not excellent mid-palate concentration before terminating in a velvety and lingering finish. The supporting tannins are sufficiently firm that this will need a decade plus of cellar time before it arrives at its full apogee. (Drink starting 2029)
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